Why this recipe works
Handvo ticks almost every box. Its batter is rice and a mix of chana, toor and urad dals, so it is high in protein and fibre; it is fermented, which aids digestion and adds B vitamins; it is packed with grated bottle gourd; and it is baked or griddled, not fried. A sesame-and-mustard tempering gives the classic crackly crust.
Ingredients
Method
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1
Soak and coarsely grind the rice and dals, then ferment with yogurt overnight.
Why ferment: fermentation makes the dals and grains more digestible, adds B vitamins and gives handvo its gentle tang, just like idli and dhokla.
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2
Stir in the grated bottle gourd, ginger, chilli and turmeric, and a little fruit salt.
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3
Pour into a tin or handvo pan and top with a sesame-mustard-curry-leaf tempering.
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4
Bake or cook covered until set with a crisp, golden crust.
Why baked: cooking it in a tin or pan rather than frying keeps handvo light, all the nourishment, none of the deep-frying.
An honest word
Handvo is a genuinely excellent savoury bake: fermented, rich in plant protein and fibre from the mixed dals, loaded with vegetable, and baked rather than fried. There is almost nothing to caveat beyond keeping the oil in the tempering modest. Filling and wholesome, it works as a snack, breakfast or light meal, and it is a brilliant way to use up a glut of bottle gourd.