Why this recipe works
Upma lives or dies by one step: dry-roasting the rava. Semolina is thirsty and starchy, and if it goes into water raw, the granules swell and stick into a paste. Toast it first in a dry pan and two things happen, the surface moisture leaves and the starch sets on each granule, so they later drink up the water separately and evenly and stay fluffy. One honest note on nutrition: rava is refined wheat, the starchy heart of the grain with the bran removed, so the smart move is to load it with vegetables, add a handful of nuts and dal for protein, and keep the portion sensible. A whole-grain version is in the three ways below.
Ingredients
Method
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1
In a dry pan on medium heat, roast the rava, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes until it smells nutty and turns a shade paler-gold. Do not let it brown. Tip it out and set aside.
The whole secret: roasting drives off moisture and sets the starch on each granule, so they later absorb water one by one and stay separate. Skip this and you get glue.
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2
Heat ghee in the same pan. Add the mustard seeds; when they pop, add the urad dal, chana dal and nuts and fry to gold. Add curry leaves, ginger, chilli and onion; soften.
Why: the fried dals and nuts add crunch, protein and a nutty depth to what is otherwise a soft dish. Popping the mustard releases its flavour.
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3
Add the carrot and peas, stir a minute, then pour in the hot water with salt and bring to a rolling boil.
Why: the water must be at a boil before the rava goes in, so the granules hit hot liquid and set fast rather than sitting and swelling into lumps.
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4
Lower the heat. Add the roasted rava in a slow stream, stirring constantly with the other hand, until it comes together. Cover and steam 2 to 3 minutes. Finish with lemon and coriander.
Why: streaming it in while stirring keeps every granule separate, and the short covered steam finishes the fluff. The lemon at the end lifts the whole bowl.
Three ways
1 · Classic rava
As above, the everyday South Indian breakfast.
2 · Whole-grain
Use broken wheat (dalia) or millet rava for more fibre and slower energy.
3 · More protein
Fold in extra peas, sprouted moong or a scatter of roasted peanuts.