Cook · East Indian · Bengali

Shukto Shukto

A uniquely bitter-sweet Bengali medley of vegetables built around bitter gourd, softened with milk and a delicate spice paste. Traditionally the first course, to wake the appetite.

Vegetarian 6g protein East Indian

40 min

start to finish

4

serves

Medium

effort

Why this recipe works

Shukto embodies a very old idea: start a meal with something bitter. Bitter gourd (karela) leads a gentle medley of vegetables, cooked with milk and a paste of poppy or mustard seed, tempered with the Bengali five-spice. The bitterness is thought to whet the appetite and aid digestion, and karela itself is long studied for blood sugar. It is soft, subtle and very low in oil.

Ingredients

  • Mixed veg (bitter gourd, potato, raw banana, drumstick, brinjal)500 g
  • Milk1/2 cup
  • Poppy or mustard seed paste2 tbsp
  • Ginger paste, panch phoron1 tsp + 1 tsp
  • Bay leaf, radhuni (or mustard oil)to temper
  • Ghee, salt1 tbsp

Method

  1. 1

    Lightly fry the bitter gourd first and set aside.

    Why first: a quick fry softens the karela and tames its edge, and keeping it separate lets you control just how bitter the dish is.

  2. 2

    Temper panch phoron and bay in a little oil, add ginger paste and the firmer vegetables.

  3. 3

    Add milk and the poppy or mustard paste, and simmer gently until the vegetables are soft.

    Why milk: the milk mellows and rounds the bitterness, binding the medley into something subtle and soothing rather than sharp.

  4. 4

    Return the bitter gourd, finish with a little ghee, and serve at the start of the meal with rice.

An honest word

Shukto is gentle, vegetable-rich and very low in oil, a genuinely healthy dish, and an interesting one: few cuisines build a course around bitterness. The bitter gourd carries a real, if modest, blood-sugar reputation. There is little to caveat; it is subtle food that grows on you, and a lovely, light way to open a meal.